VIA CASTIGLIONI – TORRE VENEZIA

Established by Ettore Castiglioni with Giorgio Kahn in 1937, the route is known for its final chimney, reminiscent of a bygone era of climbing. Due to frequent wet conditions, it is recommended to exit onto the Livanos route.

Difficulty:

IV+, V-

Elevation Gain:

Elevation Gain: 600m to Rifugio Vazzoler + 300m to the start + 250m for the route (300m total length). 10 pitches.

Timing:

4 hours

Approach:

From Rifugio Vazzoler, follow trail 560 towards Rifugio Tissi. Past the Favretti houses, large boulders (grandi massi) will be on the right. Exit the trail to ascend the scree until reaching the wall. Turn right to reach the base of Torre Venezia. 45 minutes from Rifugio Vazzoler.

Gear:

The route has some pitons, but additional gear is necessary.

Descent:

The descent begins on the northeast wall. A trail is found at the summit, to be followed in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. At a certain point on the wall, red arrows indicate where to leave the main trail on the ledge to follow a small path that descends to the first rappel anchor (very exposed).
The following rappels are present:
1st rappel: 60m (combination of 3 rappels: 20m + 20m + 20m)
2nd rappel: 60m (combination of 3 rappels: 20m + 20m + 20m)
At the bottom is a large red square. From here, follow the trail that descends along the gully until reaching a vertical wall, where a final 5-meter rappel is performed. Continue along the trail until reaching Rifugio Vazzoler and then the parking lot. 1.45 hours to Rifugio Vazzoler, 45 minutes to Rif. Capanna Trieste.