A beautiful route on excellent and easily protectable rock, opened by A. Da Roit in 1941. While not very continuous, it is certainly an excellent and easy alternative to the Castiglioni route on Torre Venezia.
IV+, V–
4 hours
Upon reaching the summit, there is a natural arch to the north. Head in that direction to make the first 20-meter rappel on a mountain pine.
Ascend the rocky slopes to the north (left) until reaching a cairn, then continue flat until the natural arch. Pass under the arch and descend to the right on grass and debris for about 100 meters, in the direction of the gully descending from Forcella di Pelsa, separating Torre Venezia from Punta Agordo. Descend a steep rock pitch while climbing down towards the gully (30 meters, second-degree passages). Continue descending on steep grass and debris (cairns), then cut to the right on a ledge with a path that skirts the base of the rocks of Punta Agordo. With one last rock pitch, reach the gully below Forcella di Pelsa. Do not descend into the gully but traverse to the right on the wide ledge under the wall of Torre Venezia until reaching the pulpit, where the ledge ends. Here, the red markings of the descent route of Torre Venezia begin.
Follow the trail that descends along the gully until reaching a vertical wall, where a final 5-meter rappel is performed. Continue along the trail until reaching Rifugio Vazzoler and then the parking lot. 1.45 hours to Rifugio Vazzoler, 45 minutes to Rif. Capanna Trieste.
Phone number: +39 0437 1956619
E-mail: rifugiovazzoler@gmail.com
Owner: Doris Corazza
VAT number: 01242450250
Address: Col Negro di Pelsa, Taibon