VIA CARLESSO/SANDRI – TORRE TRIESTE

Opened in 1934 by Raffaele Carlesso and Bortoldo Sandri, this route is the first ascent on the majestic south face. A classic of significant historical importance.

Difficulty:

VI, one VI+ section, and some A0 and A1 (or VII and VIII-)

Elevation Gain:

600m to Rifugio Vazzoler + 80m to the start + 600m for the route (800m total length). 24 pitches.

Timing:

9 hours

Approach:

From Rifugio Vazzoler, follow the road to Pian delle Taie, then leave it for the path leading to Van delle Sasse until reaching a scree. Ascend the scree to the beginning of the ledge.

1.15 hours to the start from Rifugio Vazzoler, (2 hours from Capanna Trieste to the start)

Gear:

The route has some pitons, but additional gear is necessary.

Descent:

Considered the most challenging descent on Civetta, with a total of 10 rappels in chimneys and channels. Two 50m ropes are required. The rappels are equipped, but caution is advised, especially regarding falling rocks.

4 hours to Rifugio Vazzoler or 4.15 hours to Capanna Trieste